Louise McSharry: Forget 1990s creasing issues, the latest cream shadows offer fast application and a powder finish

We complimented each other on managing it that day and immediately began to interrogate each other about our makeup. It wasn’t long before I was pulling the Laura Mercier Caviar Stick (€34 via spacenk.com) I was wearing on my eyes out of my bag and extolling its virtues.

Caviar Sticks are eyeshadow sticks which come in a wide array of shades and formulas, from mattes to shimmers, and I absolutely love them. They apply easily and blend like a dream, making them an ideal product for anyone who’s busy or just doesn’t have the inclination to spend ages on an eye makeup look. Shades like Sepia and Brick will give the effect of a warm smoky eye if applied to the lid and just under the lower lashes before blending out with a brush.

If you do like to get creative on your eyes, they work wonderfully when layered under other shadows and play the role of a primer. Nude shades like Au Natural or Vanilla Kiss will neutralise the eyelid and make colours pop when applied over them.

The women I was talking to were surprised by me waxing lyrically about a cream shadow, and I understand why. Once upon a time (the late 1990s and early 2000s to be precise), you couldn’t hear the phrase ‘cream shadow’ without the word ‘creasing’.

Using a cream shadow then meant your eyeshadow wouldn’t last, and nobody wants that. If you’re someone who’s carried that belief with you to the present day, please let me assure you that things have dramatically improved.

These days, many cream shadow formulas are waterproof and creaseproof. The aforementioned Caviar Sticks are a good example, but I also rate Vieve Eye Wands (€25.90 via cultbeauty.com) which are very similar.

I am also devoted to Armani Eye Tint Liquid Eyeshadow (€35 via brownthomas.com). In my experience, none of these crease or deteriorate over the course of a day, and all can be applied quickly and blended more easily than a powder shadow.

If you’re someone whose eyelids veer towards oily, you may still find you have issues. In which case, application process is important. As with all products, thin layers are key. If you apply a lot of any cream or liquid product to any area of your face, it’s more likely to crack or crease.

A thin layer will set quickly and last longer. If you need to build opacity or colour depth, apply thin layers until you get the finish you want.

Unsurprisingly, the trickiest place to avoid creasing, if you’re prone to it, is along the eye socket’s crease. With that in mind, be especially careful when applying product in the area, and consider applying a thin layer of translucent powder over it for extra security.

Lost in translation

Astaxanthin is an ingredient we’ll be seeing a lot of in 2024 skincare chat. This is a red pigment which is responsible for the pink in salmon, but it’s also an active ingredient in skincare. It has higher antioxidant activity than vitamin C, which means it will reduce hyperpigmentation, maintain collagen production and generally fight the ageing process. You can see why it’s becoming popular. This ingredient can be taken as a supplement and in topical skincare products, and is most powerful when used both ways.

Something old…

Irish brand BPerfect Cosmetics has become a global success, with makeup lovers from all over the world rating the products. What began with a single eyebrow product is now a full range, from tanning products to foundation, eyeshadow palettes and loads more.

Today’s focus is The Cheek, a brilliantly named multi-use liquid blush. Available in 10 shades, from fuchsia to pinks and peaches, this liquid applies easily and blends beautifully. It dries down quickly to a powder finish, and can be used on the eyes as well as the lips. Personally, I think using one tone across the face looks incredibly polished and sophisticated, and using a liquid blush on the cheeks and the eyes is a great way to achieve that. Just using a little of this as a base for your eyeshadow will tie your look together and make everything work harmoniously.

... Something new

Lancome’s Idole range has yet to let me down. From beautiful floral perfume to high-impact volumising mascara, and now the latest launch, Idole Tint Liquid Eye-Blusher (€30 via boots.ie), a versatile liquid eye blusher. Available in seven shades, this product was designed to be used as a blush and eyeshadow, and even as a graphic liner if you’re so inclined. Some shades are also shimmery and can double up as a highlighter.

I love a multi-use product. They cut down on time and handbag space if you’re on the move, and can simplify a makeup routine brilliantly. This product promises 16-hour wear and, in my experience, it genuinely delivers that. Also, the first time I wore it, someone complimented me on the shade of blush I was wearing - not something I’ve experienced before. (It was Sienna, by the way.)